Beyond the Unison: Three More Firefly Spectacles

An earlier story followed the synchronous fireflies, the rare species that flash in perfect time, from the Selangor River in Malaysia to the Great Smoky Mountains and Congaree in the American South. But flashing in unison is only one of the ways fireflies make a night unforgettable.

Nanacamilpa, Mexico

In the mountains of Tlaxcala, two hours east of Mexico City, fireflies gather in the largest numbers in North America. Tens of thousands rise off the forested slopes at dusk and the whole mountainside breathes light. You walk dark trails with a guide while the forest pulses around you. The season is short, but while it lasts, you are immersed in firefly light.

Tatsuno and Uji, Japan

Japan's season is just as short. Here the fireflies carry a thousand years with them. In the mountain town of Tatsuno, three hours from Tokyo, the country's biggest firefly festival builds from an evening fair of food stalls and music to the moment after dark when tens of thousands of Genji fireflies rise over the gorge. Near Kyoto, the Uji River keeps the older rite. This is the setting of The Tale of Genji, and hotaru gari has barely changed since Heian courtiers practiced it a thousand years ago. Firefly viewing here is a thousand year old romance, and taking part in it is a conversation with the history. The display lasts about ten days a year.

Amphawa, Thailand

Thailand is the exception. On the Mae Klong River, 80 kilometers from Bangkok, fireflies gather in the riverside trees through most of the year. Boats drift out from Amphawa in the evening, cut their engines, and whole rows of trees blink in time. No festival, no season to plan around. If your travels take you to Bangkok, the fireflies will be waiting.

Would you want to experience any of these someday? Make them part of your World →